Once home to the CIA, this tiny Southeast Asia runway was considered ‘the most secret place on Earth’
Once home to the CIA, this tiny Southeast Asia runway was considered ‘the most secret place on Earth’
Once home to the CIA this – Hidden within the dense, humid jungles of central Laos lies a modest 4,500-foot stretch of concrete that once served as a critical hub for covert American operations. Today, this runway — without an airport or formal infrastructure — is a mere relic of its former self, nestled in a village where aviation is a distant memory for many. Yet beneath its weathered control tower and scarred surface lies a story of clandestine warfare, pivotal to the Cold War struggle in Southeast Asia.
The Village Today
Long Tieng, a modest settlement of a few thousand residents, now thrives on agriculture and small-scale trade. The village center features a makeshift community space, where children ride scooters, farmers tend to their livestock, and elderly locals begin their day with quiet walks through the mist-laden valley. The airstrip, once a lifeline for military operations, now hosts makeshift stalls selling rice, tools crafted from repurposed bombshell metal, and other everyday goods. This blend of resilience and simplicity reflects the village’s enduring ties to its history, even as the echoes of war fade into the background.
For decades, the area was known as ‘the most secret place on Earth’ — a designation that once defined its purpose. During the 1960s to early 1970s, Long Tieng was the nerve center of a US-backed Hmong resistance movement, fighting against communist forces in the region. The site became a strategic asset in the broader conflict to contain the spread of communism, with the CIA playing a central role in its operations. The airstrip, nicknamed Lima Site 98 and Lima Site 20A, was not just a base but a symbol of America’s shadowy involvement in the region.
A Secret War
At its peak, the village housed an estimated tens of thousands of people, including Hmong soldiers, their families, Thai military personnel, and a select group of American CIA agents and Air Force pilots. These operatives, known as ‘Ravens,’ flew thousands of missions from the runway, transporting vital supplies such as ammunition and food to outposts across the country. The airstrip’s daily traffic of 900 takeoffs and landings made it one of the busiest airfields in the world, despite its remote location. The logistics of this operation were so intricate that even some participants in the war elsewhere were unaware of its existence.
“The war in Laos was so compartmentalized… I knew guys who fought in that war, and they didn’t even know Long Tieng existed until the late 1960s when they started letting reporters in,” says Paul Carter, a Laos Secret War expert based in Southeast Asia.
The Hmong guerrilla forces, led by the indomitable General Vang Pao, orchestrated operations that targeted North Vietnamese supply lines and logistics hubs. From this unassuming village, they disrupted enemy movements, destroyed key infrastructure, and kept communist forces on the defensive. The US, avoiding direct military engagement due to international agreements, relied heavily on the CIA to coordinate these efforts. The airfield became a silent witness to the brutal bombing campaigns that paralleled Vietnam’s war, a testament to the scale of America’s hidden involvement.
The Legacy of Operations
Long Tieng’s strategic importance stemmed from its ability to support a vast network of clandestine operations. Cargo planes would deliver supplies to the runway, where they were then transferred to smaller aircraft for distribution to remote locations. This system allowed the CIA to sustain the Hmong army and maintain a presence in areas where overt US military activity was prohibited. The site was not just a logistical hub but a symbol of American ingenuity and the lengths to which it would go to achieve its Cold War objectives.
Even today, the airfield’s history lingers. The remnants of its wartime infrastructure — from bomb craters to faded control tower walls — tell tales of a place where the line between ally and adversary blurred. General Vang Pao, whose leadership defined this era, once worked nearby in mining operations, attesting to the village’s deep connection to both the land and the conflict. His recollections, though limited, provide a glimpse into how this hidden base shaped the region’s fate.
The Author’s Journey
Fifty years after the fall of Long Tieng in 1975, the site remains a point of fascination for historians and adventurers alike. The author, inspired by the book A Great Place to Have a War by Joshua Kurlantzick, set out to uncover the area’s forgotten legacy. The journey to Long Tieng began in Vientiane, where the author joined an old college friend and a local guide named Mr. Pao. With a rugged vehicle navigating the winding roads, the trio ventured into the heart of the jungle to witness the airstrip’s transformation from a war zone to a place of quiet reflection.
As the author explored the site, the contrast between its past and present became striking. The once-thriving military hub now stood as a memorial to a conflict that shaped the destiny of a nation. For many locals, the airfield is a reminder of both hardship and survival — a place where bombs fell but life continued. The remnants of the runway, though worn, still evoke the intensity of a time when secrecy and strategy defined every moment.
Preserving the Past
Despite its historical significance, Long Tieng remains relatively obscure. Tour companies offer limited access to the village, with only around 40 visitors arriving annually. Chris Corbett, owner of Laos Adv Tours and Rentals, notes that his business runs approximately 10 motorbike trips to the site each year. “It’s a challenge to bring people here, but the stories and history are worth the effort,” he explains.
The village’s quiet existence highlights the enduring impact of its role in the Cold War. While the world moved on, Long Tieng clung to its roots, with the Hmong community continuing to steward the land. The airfield’s transformation from a battleground to a communal space underscores the resilience of its people and the subtle ways history reshapes landscapes. As the author stood among the trees, the runway’s cracked surface seemed to whisper of the missions that once took place there — a reminder of the invisible war that defined an era.
Today, the airstrip stands as a symbol of a forgotten chapter in global history. Its name, once synonymous with secrecy and power, now serves as a bridge between the past and present. For those who visit, the site offers more than just a glimpse into the Cold War; it reveals the intricate alliances and sacrifices that made it possible. Long Tieng’s story is one of hidden battles, where the CIA’s influence and the Hmong’s determination converged to alter the course of Southeast Asia’s history. The runway, though modest, remains a testament to the scale of operations that unfolded in its shadow — a place where the world’s most secretive war left its mark.